This kit has all the necessary parts for performing an oil change on your water cooled R and R Kit includes:. Adventure Motorcycle Depot. Stay Social. Get in touch. Build To Order. This product or version is on order. Contact us for an estimated ship date. Add to wishlist. Full details Reviews This kit has all the necessary parts for performing an oil change on your water cooled R and R BMW special performance oils meet all of the demanding requirements of precision BMW motorcycle engines.
Provides outstanding wear, rust, corrosion, and oxidation protection, and will stay in grade under severs loads at all operating conditions. This isn't a knockoff filter, it's a Genuine BMW part.
OEM Crush washer for oil drain plug - It's recommended to change this crush washer every time you change your oil. Failure to do so could result in oil seepage or leaks around the drain plug, or in severe cases stripping out the threads in the motor, creating a much bigger problem. Ships domestic ground only due to oil. Customer Reviews Based on 2 reviews Write a review. Search Type keyword and hit enter. Just added to your cart:. Keep Shopping My Cart.
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Login Register. Reading fault memory with BMW Motorrad diagnostic system. Performing bleed brake test with the BMW Motorrad diagnostic system.
Checking freedom of movement of throttle cable and checking for kinks and chafing. Only spoke wheels Checking spoke tension, adjusting if necessary. Performing vehicle test with BMW Motorrad diagnostic system. Spoke wheels Checking spoke tension, adjusting if necessary. Reading error memory with BMW Motorrad diagnostic system.Log in or Join. Adventure Rider. ElGringoApr 28, Joined: Nov 13, Oddometer: 1, Location: Purgatory.
I first noticed the problem while pushing the bike out of the garage.
The rear tire made a strange squishing noise. I figured perhaps it was low on air, or maybe the tire compound was different this was a fairly new tire after all After checking the air pressure, I placed the bike on its center stand and spun the wheel. All seemed fine. The wheel rocked on its axle roughly a millimeter or so.
I changed the final drive fluid religiously. The bike has only 53, miles. Absolutely horrified, it was obviously time for plan B. There seemed to be a lot of custom tools required. Not good.
So I contacted my friend who works at a machine shop to see how hard it would be to replicate some them. No problem, anything to see what makes this bike tick. Than it was off to the liquor barn for a case of liquid courage, and I got started.
With the rear wheel off, I place some blocks under the catalytic converter to act as support in case some one accidentally leans on the bike.
I also tied the center stand to the sump guard to prevent any chance of the bike moving forward. I figured Id try to do as much disassembly as I could while the final drive was still attached. I started with trying to remove the circlip that holds the wheel flange in place. This proved to be impossible without a circlip removal tool so I was off to Harbor Freight where I found the perfect tool and a cheap laser powered heat thermometer something that would be really useful later.
With the proper tool in hand it was time to remove the circlip, but to my dismay the prongs were too large to fit in the circlip holes.Haynes Manuals to AndyW: Provision for a final drive oil change has indeed been made on BMW R models, with a drain plug fitted to the final drive housing.
This is a one-off service item to be performed miles from new, after the drive components have bedded in. An oil change is also advised on pre models, although these machine will of course have exceeded the mileage interval. A dealer will be able to provide full details of how this is accomplished, although I understand it involves disconnecting the Paralever and tipping the unit back to drain the oil. We will research this further and include details in our manual when it is updated.
Here are the steps:. The drive shaft comes out easily, but you may need to push it down a bit to get it to release. Clean the drive shaft and FD input shaft, then add Moly 60, or equivalent lube, to the shaft and splines.
BMW R1200GS / R1200 Final Drive Oil Change
Install the rubber gaiter, pivot the rear-wheel drive up and introduce the bevel-pinion shaft into the universal shaft. If necessary, turn the FD gently back and forth to facilitate this operation. This is made way easier if you have the bike in neutral. I took half an hour to figure this out, and it still took a few minutes.
Fill the final drive with oil via the speed sensor hole, with. Do it VERY slowly. The oil will not go in fast, and will come back out the hole and run all over the place. Grease the speed sensor O-ring and put it in the final drive, followed by the greased speed sensor and then install the screw, the clamp screw, and the clip. Install the rear fender GS onlyand make sure to start all three screws before tightening them down. Here is the old oil. It was definitely darker than the new, but not bad for 20K miles.
There were no shavings in the old oil, and the little amount of fuzz on the speed sensor was negligible. Overall it should take less than an hour, and is not too bad. Just make sure you have all the tools you need, and plenty of paper towels!
There is a recall to seal the speedo sensor certainly on the HP. Apparently they are prone to leak. Please log in again. The login page will open in a new tab. After logging in you can close it and return to this page. Torque values Notes: Change gear oil, warmed to normal operating temperature. Here are the steps: 1. Remove the fender GS models only. Remove the rear wheel.
Unbolt the Brake Caliper and hang it with some wire to the frame. Remove the rear speed sensor, both screws and the clip, and hang it with the brake caliper.
Remove oil drain plug, and drain off the oil. I took half an hour to figure this out, and it still took a few minutes 9. Reconnect the paralever link. Install the bolt and torque it down to 43 nm. Clip the gaiter back in place.Discussion in ' GS Boxers ' started by rocketman1Mar 17, Log in or Join. Adventure Rider. Final Drive on RGS oil drain? I was considering buying a RGSbut was concerned about the lack of being able to change the oil in the final drive. Apparently there is no filler or drain plug in some models.
This seems ridiculous. I dont consider having to remove the rear wheel etc and fill through a abs sensor hole much fun. Does anyone know if BMW have returned to their senses and installed drain and filling holes like the older Rgs models have?
If so what year models have this capablility. Joined: Jan 7, Oddometer: 3, Location: S. Central PA. Many threads on this subject, and you can still change the oil easily in the FDs with no drain plug on the bottom.
Pull what now serves as the drain plug positioned directly rearward before the FD is pivoted down and drain the oil. Reinstall the plug, pivot the FD back up while re-engaging the driveshaft splined adapter to the FD input shaft splines, reinstall the bolt, refill FD through the sensor hole, reinstall the sensor and wheel and you're done.
Late build model year bikes and after got the bottom drain plug. LillMange likes this. ADV Sponsors. Joined: Nov 18, Oddometer: Location: Illinois. It's really a good chance to grease the final drive input splines. I have seen some so rusted that they could not be separated. Joined: Apr 24, Oddometer: Location: Indiana. Do it everytime you replace the rear tire, wheel is already off. Works out about right. Dan-MMar 18, I don't know what year they added the fill hole but it is on the left so you still have to remove the wheel.
JimVonBadenMar 18, It is pretty simple. This may sway you yet In order to get all the juice out, you have to drop the FD by unbolting it from the tele? In order to do this and not break your wire for the ABS sensor, you have to remove the sensor anyhow.
Since it's out at this point, pretend it's a fill hole and fill-er up. Joined: Nov 7, Oddometer: Location: Ocean motion. On my '12 GSA the fill hole is at 3 o'clock when the wheel is off.
Final Drive on R1200GS oil drain?
If you lube spline then you can just fill thru speed sensor hole, since you'll have to remove it anyway. MultiplicityMar 31, The new FD's hold ml of gear oil.
Don't over fill it. LaurelPerryOnLandMar 31, CallistoMar 31, Log in or Join. Adventure Rider. JimVonBadenMar 11, This is especially true if you do a lot of deep water crossings, ride in the rain often, or just put on a lot of miles. There have been cases of corrosion in the FD on several bikes, though not a large number by percentage, and even a failure of the FD splines on one bike due to corrosion.
Here are the results, and general how-to: Pull the fender and wheel. Then remove the speed sensor and the brake caliper: Then hang the caliper out of the way: Next remove the drain and fill plugs: Then pull the bolt holding the Paralink bolt to the final drive: Be prepared for it to drop down as you pull the bolt. Sometimes it doesn't and you will have to pull the final drive down. Make sure you have a cookie sheet or tray below the FD. You want no more than 1" deep for a tray. No worries about the amount of fluid, it will be fine.
Beware, if you have rusty splines, it can cause the driveshaft to stick to the final drive. If that happens you can pull the driveshaft out of the tras splines. This makes it difficult to get back in until you separate the FD splines from the driveshaft.
See post and a few more for details. Now you can see the condition of the splines, and the area inside the final drive. Both bikes looked exactly like this, and the 14K mile bike had a lot of off roading, presumably with water crossings. If you find oil in the swingarm, look up inside and see if there is an oil trail.
If so, it will be the transmission output seal. If not, look at the dropped final drive for wet oil indicating a leaking final drive input seal. Time to lube the spline, even if they have lube. Use a Moly based lube like I did: No need to go nuts, a thin layer is fine. Once done, the fun part begins. You need to install the gaiter and mate the final drive to the driveshaft.
There are two tricks to it. First, install a soft wire into the driveshaft U-joint like this to hold it in position: Second, leave off the gator and fit the final drive.Caution: This pictorial is for informational purposes only. I accept no responsibility for accuracy, or any damage caused to your motorcycle if you choose to perform these maintenance items.
After finding out that the 07 R series bikes will require an oil change at miles, I decided to change my 05 "permanent" oil, then at 20K miles, just in case.
Here are the steps: 1. Remove the fender GS models only. Remove the rear wheel T Torx. Unbolt the Brake Caliper T Torx and hang it with some wire to the frame. Note: This sensor build-up looks bad, but really isn't. That is a normal amount of accumulation for 20K miles and never changed.
It looked much better the second and third time. It should have no grit in it, just feel like wet talc. Remove the rear speed sensor, both screws T Torx and the clip, and hang it with the brake caliper.
Remove oil drain plug, and drain off the oil. Note the new bikes have a drain at the bottom, and do not require the FD be dropped unless you want to lube the driveshaft splines. Release the paralink at the rea it's now flopped down, with the fill plug at the bottom The drive shaft comes out easily, but you may need to push it down a bit to get it to release.
The Release bolt is a T Torx and a 17mm locknut. Clean the drive shaft and FD input shaft, then add Moly 60, or equivalent lube, to the shaft and splines. Install the rubber gaitor, pivot the rear-wheel drive up and introduce the bevel-pinion shaft into the universal drive shaft. If necessary, turn the FD gently back and forth to facilitate this operation.
This is made way easier if you have the bike in neutral. I took half an hour to figure this out, and it still took a few minutes. Also, if you are having trouble, pull the gaiter off and test fit it, then reinstall the gaiter and it will go on easier. Reconnect the paralever link.BMW R1200 GS Replacing rubber boots
Install the bolt and nut and torque it down to 43 nm.